From Munurru we followed the track north through the Aboriginal Community of Kalumburu and on another 20km to a beautiful laid back beach camping area with great sunset views called McGowans Sunset Beach where we have set ourselves up for 5 nights. The photos below speak for themselves. Every night we all get our chairs and head down to the beach to see what colours we they will get at the sunset. It is a show every night. With all the “controlled burning” smoke in the air the sunsets are even more spectacular.
It’s all about fishing here. We are the only ones not fishing. Every man, woman and child has a rod in their hand or have a boat and are out in it when the wind settles down. It’s a good thing we still have fish in the freezer!
On the first day we headed back into Kalumburu town and ended up getting the same two things we got when we visited the Ngukarr community a few weeks ago: a painting and a puncture. At least Steve’s auto garage had a great view of the beach!
While in town, Maddy also visited the women’s centre to discuss some secret women’s business, while I queued for some diesel. On the way out we stopped for a look at the lower part of the King Edward river near town and some world war two plane wrecks at the end of the Kalumburu airfield.
While it is interesting visiting such remote places the drawback is the lack of information available. While the site was informally sign posted there was no background on why the planes were there and no-one seemed to know either. There was a small museum at the mission in town which had an interesting collection, but again, the information was a bit patchy. We do know that the Japanese bombed the old Pago Mission near here thinking it was a military installation during WW2. 5 people died. The mission was moved to Kalumburu due to more reliable water.
We went for a few walks in either direction from our camp here. The Kimberly Coast is wild though and does not want humans to walk along it. It is mangroves and mud flats or rocky outcrops to get around or crocodiles along the shore to avoid. This is why the luxury cruise boats do so well here with few roads that lead to the coast line and those being pretty rough. It seems only fisherman are willing to make the trip overland. The fishing up here is like nowhere else we are told.
Maddy takes photos of hospitals so I thought I better also show interest in my career and take photos of mobile phone base stations too. Here is one of Optus’s satellite base stations which does not work so well in this town with a population of 400.